Packaging Questions

1. Must I take a hydrometer reading before I bottle?
2. When is my bottled beer ready to drink?
3. At what pressure do I set the regulator to carbonate my beer?
4. Is there any way to speed up the carbonation of my beer?
5. My beer has a head on it, but still tastes flat, what do I do?
6. How long does it take to carbonate a Cornelius keg of beer?
7. My beer is pouring foamy out of the tap, what do I do?
8. Does the StarSan foam contribute a flavor to my beer/wort?
9. Can I carbonate my beer with other types of sugar besides corn sugar?
10. Can I add ingredients to my beer when I bottle?
11. What is a Cornelius keg?
12. How do I rebuild a used Cornelius keg?
13. Can I prime my keg with sugar like a bottle?
14. Can I add hops directly to the keg?
15. My bottles gush foam when I open them. What did I do wrong?
16. It’s been 2 weeks and my bottled beer still isn't carbonated, what should I do?

Must I take a hydrometer reading before I bottle?

A hydrometer reading is not necessary, but it is the only way to accurately determine alcohol percentage and when beer has completely finished fermenting. Two identical gravity readings taken 2-3 days apart indicate that the beer is done fermenting and is ready to bottle or keg. A final gravity reading along with the starting gravity reading is necessary to determine alcohol percentage by volume. When a beer finishes too sweet or overly dry, the gravity readings are one way in which to quantify what you taste. Gravity, both original and final, can greatly influence many characteristics of a finished beer and being able to take and interpret readings will not only increase your familiarity with a variety of yeasts and fermentation, but will lead to a better understanding of beer in general.

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When is my bottled beer ready to drink?

Most beers carbonate in 10-14 days when using corn sugar at normal fermentation temperatures. Each individual batch will reach its ideal carbonation and peak flavor at different times, so the length of conditioning is up to you, the brew master. In general, more conditioning time may be necessary with high gravity and beers with more robust flavors (stouts, herb/spice beers, etc.).

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At what pressure do I set the regulator to carbonate my beer?

Regulator pressure and temperature are the two variables that control the carbonation level in your beer. The colder the beer, the more carbon dioxide it can absorb, so lower the regulator so the beer doesn’t risk over-carbonation. The following table outlines the carbonation levels attained at combinations of pressure and temperature. Approximate carbonation is given for basic styles in volumes of CO2. Carbonation charts and more detailed carbonation instruction, advice, and tips can be found in your favorite homebrewing guide or here. (This is the BYO article)

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My beer has a head on it, but still tastes flat, what do I do?

Yes and no. While many homebrewers have methods for decreasing the amount of carbonation time for kegged beers, the amount of time for beer to absorb CO2 and equalize pressure under normal conditions is always at least five days. Although you will be able to pour something that has head, the beer itself will still taste flat, and the simple reason is that it has not equalized pressure yet.
One way to speed up the carbonation process is to set the regulator at 30 psi for 24-48 hours, then turn down to desired carbonation pressure where it will equalize.
The best way to speed up carbonation while retaining comtrol is to attach a .5 micron diffusion stone to the gas ‘in’ dip-tube inside the keg. This forces CO2 into the beer creating tiny bubbles which are easily dissolved in solution and carbonates your beer almost immediately if it is already cold.

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How long does it take to carbonate a Cornelius keg of beer?

If chilled before carbonating, it will take 5-7 days for the pressure to equalize completely and the beer to fully carbonate. The more head space in the keg, the faster the beer will equalize with the head pressure.

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My beer is pouring foamy out of the tap, what do I do?

If the beer is at a constant temperature and the initial week of carbonation is over, the regulator may need to be adjusted. Both too much pressure and too little can make the beer pour foamy. Turn the regulator all the way to zero. Turn it up 1 psi at a time until the beer pours just right. If the beer has warmed up or changed temperature multiple times from when you initially carbonated it, you may need to chill it back down to retain the CO2 already dissolved or possibly carbonate it again to equalize it at the proper pressure.

It is possible that the beer may be over-carbonated. Shut off pressure from the regulator and pull the pressure relief valve and bleed pressure out of the keg. This will allow carbon dioxide to slowly leach out of the beer, filling the head space with pressure again. Continue bleeding the pressure until the beer reaches the appropriate level of carbonation.

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Does the StarSan foam contribute a flavor to my beer/wort?

No, this no-rinse sanitizer foam doesn’t add any flavor to your wort or beer. Since it is phosphoric acid based and is effective at an extremely low concentration, it sanitizes without influencing the taste of the wort or finished beer in any way.

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Can I carbonate my beer with other types of sugar besides corn sugar?

Yes, while corn sugar is the simplest sugar and easiest for the yeast to ferment quickly, other sugars can be substituted. These others may take longer to carbonate or may add flavor to the finished beer. See How to Brew, The Complete Joy of Homebrewing, or web resources for detailed substitution amounts for various sugars like cane sugar, honey, molasses, etc.

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Can I add ingredients to my beer when I bottle?

Some ingredients are best added immediately before bottling. Coffee and fruit flavorings are among the most popular additives, but herbal infusions and tinctures can be added at this time as well. Any additive that has sugar in it can affect the level of carbonation in the bottle, so sugar free flavorings are best to achieve the right carbonation.

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What is a Cornelius keg?

A Cornelius keg is a name for a 5-gallon stainless steel keg formerly used to hold soda; they are the most convenient kegs for home brewers to use. There are two styles of taps, ball lock (Pepsi company) and pin lock (Coca-Cola company) with separate connectors for gas and liquid input/output. The latch-down top of the keg is removable for easy access inside the keg.

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How do I rebuild a used Cornelius keg?

There are two main steps to rebuilding a used ‘corny’ keg: cleaning thoroughly and replacing the seals and o-rings. First, unscrew the connector bodies, removing and inspecting the spring-loaded poppets for damage; remove both dip tubes from the keg, discarding the seals and use a long brush to scrub inside them both. Use a cleaning solution like One-Step or PBW and a scrubbing pad or brush to clean the entire inside of the keg removing all built up ‘funk’. Do not use bleach to clean your keg, as it pits stainless steel. Rinse all parts thoroughly and reassemble, replacing all the o-rings. There is an o-ring on each dip tube where it contacts the keg, on each connector body where it seals with the tap disconnects, and on the lid where it connects to the keg.
There are many great kegging resources available online (here and BYO) and in print as well.

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Can I prime my keg with sugar like a bottle?

Yes, you can prime a Cornelius keg with any type of sugar to naturally carbonate it instead of force-carbonating with CO2. Instead of using 4 oz (¾ cup) of dextrose (corn sugar), a keg only requires 1/3 cup of corn sugar to carbonate. When carbonating in a keg, it generally takes at least 14 days so check the level of carbonation before refrigerating. Natural or ‘cask’-style carbonation accumulates more sediment on the bottom of the keg than force carbonation, so the first couple of pours will be yeasty, but the beer should pour clean afterward.

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Can I add hops directly to the keg?

Yes, whole or pellet hops can be added directly to the keg. Use a sanitized nylon or cheesecloth bag to keep the hops out of your pints and from clogging the liquid dip tube, also for convenience of removal and cleaning. This is best done when the beer won’t be in the keg for more than 2-3 weeks, so the hops don’t degrade and add a grassy flavor to the beer. For more on techniques of dry hopping, go here.

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My bottles gush foam when I open them. What did I do wrong?

1. Over carbonation can happen when the beer is bottled before fermentation has ceased. If the beer did not reach terminal gravity which is when hydrometer readings taken 2-3 days apart are consistent, you may have prematurely bottled your beer while the yeast was still converting sugars in the wort to alcohol and carbon dioxide. The additional carbonation from fermentation combined with the priming sugar can over-carbonate the beer once it is bottled.
2. Once the desired level of carbonation has been achieved it is best to reduce the temperature of storage so that the carbonation process does not continue. Move the carbonated beer into the refrigerator, or any area below 60°F for storage. Should the bottles be left at warmer temperatures, the yeast can continue to ferment (usually only when there are enough residual sugars to ferment i.e. the beer didn't reach terminal gravity) and over-carbonate bottled beer.
3. It is also possible that too much priming sugar was added. Make sure that the proportions were correct for the volume of beer and you follow the proper directions for bottling. (link this to a bottling article)
4. Another reason for over-carbonation can be a result of bacterial infection. If sanitation was not sufficient, bacteria can eat residual sugars left over by the yeast and form more carbon dioxide and various other flavors (commonly some sort of sourness). If this has occurred, the beer will have much less body than when it was bottled, and can have a sour/acidic flavor.

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It’s been 2 weeks and my bottled beer still isn't carbonated, what should I do?

1. Make sure the bottles are being kept at the active fermentation temperature for the yeast (65-70 for ales and 50-55 for lagers). The yeast needs to be active to ferment the priming sugar added. Increase the temperature of the bottles for a couple of days to a week and check carbonation level before chilling them down.
2. Placing bottles on their side can also speed up natural carbonation by increasing the surface area of the beer exposed to the gases in the head-space of the bottle. Lay the bottles on their sides for a few days or a week then test carbonation level. If bottles are still not carbonated, then more drastic measures are necessary:
3. Did you forget to add priming sugar? Sometimes even homebrewers forget (some) very important things. In this case, spray down all bottles with a no-rinse sanitizer, uncap each one, add carbonation priming tablets, and recap.
3. When packaging the beer in bottles, a small amount of yeast must be transferred to ferment the priming sugar you add. Generally this happens without any effort as there is plenty of yeast in solution to adequately carbonate beer. However, if the yeast flocculated very well, the siphoning was very clean, and/or the beer has been aging for many months, it is possible there was not enough yeast in solution to eat the priming sugar. In this case, line up all the bottles and spray them all down with a no-rinse sanitizer. Open each bottle and add a couple grains of dehydrated ale yeast (or lager if appropriate) to each bottle. Recap each bottle and allow another 2 weeks to carbonate.

Finally, some high gravity or high adjunct beers may take longer to carbonate (even up to and exceeding one month), so have patience and let your strong ale age longer before you do anything drastic.

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